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Exploring Hidden Coves at Low Tide

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  • 24th March 2019
Exploring Hidden Coves at Low Tide

Why the Lowest Tides Give Up Their Secrets

Most of the British coast keeps its best features hidden. Sea caves, natural arches and sandy inlets spend the majority of the month underwater, revealed only when a big spring tide drains the shoreline back further than usual. On those days the beach you know can double in width, and whole landscapes appear that you would never guess were there from the clifftop path.

The catch is that this happens on a schedule that is generous in height and stingy in time. Around low water you might get a two or three hour window before the sea begins its return, and it comes back faster than most people expect, particularly on flat sand. The whole craft of low-tide exploring is really about planning the retreat before you set off.

Britain is well suited to it. Tidal ranges here are among the largest in the world, and in the Bristol Channel they can exceed twelve metres. That enormous difference between high and low water is what exposes caves and cuts new channels across the sand. It is also what makes the return trip so important.

Reading the Tide Before You Leave the House

Start with a tide table for the nearest standard port, and check whether the times are given in GMT or BST. A one hour error in summer is enough to ruin the day badly.

Look at the predicted height of low water rather than just the time. Heights are measured against chart datum, and on a big spring tide the low might be forecast at 0.3 or 0.5 metres. Those are the days worth saving for. Springs arrive roughly every fortnight, a day or two after the full and new moon.

Then add the weather. High pressure pushes water levels down, low pressure and a strong onshore wind push them up, so a low tide during a winter gale may barely uncover anything and the sea can return early. A useful habit is the rule of thirds: spend no more than a third of the time between low water and the next high water beyond your turning point.

Give yourself an hour of margin. Write your turn-around time on the back of your hand if it helps. Watches and phone alarms are fine, but phones flatten and watches get forgotten in a rucksack.

Know Your Access Rights and Local Rules

Much of the foreshore around England, Wales and Northern Ireland is open to the public, but that is not the same as everywhere. Harbours, military ranges, private estates and nature reserves all have their own arrangements, and some coves are reachable only across land where access is permissive rather than a right.

  • Check local notices at car parks and slipways, and any seasonal restrictions on clifftop paths.
  • Respect breeding birds between roughly March and July, and keep well back from seals hauled out on rocks or in caves.
  • Keep dogs on a lead near nesting sites, on the cliff edge and wherever livestock graze.
  • Take nothing from the shore: no hammering at rock, no prising limpets off stones, no pocketing fossils or shells.
  • Leave gates, walls and fences exactly as you find them, and park so a rescue vehicle could still pass.

If you are unsure whether a beach or cave is open, ask locally or simply choose another. There is always a next tide.

What You Will Find: Caves, Arches and Sandy Inlets

Sea caves form where waves exploit a fault, a joint or a band of softer rock within a harder headland. Where that erosion punches right through, you get an arch; where a cave roof collapses, you get a blowhole. On the lowest tides you may also see the stumps of a submerged forest, peat beds and tree roots preserved in the sand, or the ribs of an old wreck that spends most of the year buried.

The sand itself changes character. Expect wet cobble banks near the cliff base, open sand in the middle of the bay, and rock platforms at the outer edge where kelp, wrack and red weeds suggest the usual waterline. Rockpools are at their best in the first hour after the tide turns, before the sun has warmed them too much.

A few sensible cautions. Never enter a cave where the floor is below the current waterline, because a single swell can fill it. Look up for overhangs and fresh rockfall, and avoid any arch whose base is still taking spray. Sandbars and channels shift every winter, so a route that was easy last year may now be chest deep.

Kit for a Short Window

  • Footwear with real grip: trainers with tread or walking sandals that stay on. Not flip-flops, not bare feet.
  • A walking pole for wet, slippery rock and for testing the sand ahead of you.
  • A head torch or small hand torch for caves and dark gullies.
  • A charged phone in a dry bag, plus a whistle in a pocket.
  • A spare warm layer, water and a snack, even for a short outing.
  • Written tide times and heights, and a watch you actually look at.

Getting Back Safely

The sea does not chase you along the beach; it gets behind you. Water fills the gullies and channels first, quietly cutting off the sandy route you walked in on, and the ground that looks dry is often the last place to flood and the first place to become a trap.

Pick out two escape routes before you go far: one along the shore and one to higher ground. Keep glancing back at the sea, not just ahead. If you do get cut off, do not try to swim for it. Climb onto the highest safe rock or ledge, stay put, and call 999 and ask for the coastguard.

Tell someone where you are going and when you expect to be back. If you can, take a companion, and if you are exploring alone, keep the ambition modest and the margin wide. Done properly, a low-tide wander is one of the best half-days the coast has to offer: quiet, strange, and entirely dependent on your own good timing.

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Comments
ALina Kelian
19th May 2018 Reply

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Rlex Kelian
19th May 2018 Reply

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Roboto Alex
21th May 2018 Reply

The Coastalcombe Simple, genuine and looked after with care — the kind of place worth returning to. ullamco laboris nisi ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequat.

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